PARIS (AP):
Unveiling a new chapter in its illustrious history, Louis Vuitton made an indelible mark on Paris Fashion Week’s men’s shows as they premiered the debut collection by musician-turned-designer Pharrell Williams.
Appointed in February to fill the immense shoes left by the death of Virgil Abloh, Williams unveiled his design prowess to the fashion world with a show that exuded confidence.
The breathtaking venue for this sartorial spectacle was Paris’ iconic Pont Neuf. The historic bridge, typically resplendent with time-worn stone, was transformed into a golden runway – a dramatic stage set against the backdrop of the shimmering Seine and under the starlit Parisian sky.
The Tuesday night event drew a constellation of stars in their own right. The stellar audience encompassed icons of music, sports and entertainment. Among the guests lining the gilded cobbles were music royalty Beyoncé and Jay-Z, NBA superstar LeBron James, new brand ambassador Zendaya and global pop phenomenon Rihanna.
Williams’ first show proved to be an ambitious endeavour, interweaving the luxury and sophistication of high fashion with the pulsating energy and broad appeal of pop culture and entertainment. The show was more than a runway presentation, it was an immersive experience that captured the imagination of those fortunate enough to witness it firsthand.
As sunlight filled the storied halls of Louis Vuitton’s headquarters, Williams stepped into his new role as the fashion house’s menswear designer.
His appointment symbolises more than a career shift. It represents a daring move by the luxury brand to entrust the position to a musical artiste and cultural influencer, not a classically trained designer. But Pharrell says he doesn’t feel pressure to prove himself – he was chosen.
“I didn’t feel any of that because if I was competing for it and people kept telling me, ‘No don’t do it.’ I may have felt that way, but the difference is, I was chosen,” Pharrell told AP in a joint interview. “So, like when you’re chosen, you just kind of ride the wave.”
A sense of being selected by the universe, or by Louis Vuitton, carries a sense of destiny for him. But stepping into the designer role isn’t just about fulfilling his personal destiny. Williams also feels like he’s carrying on the legacy of the late Abloh, who was the first black artistic director at Louis Vuitton and a personal friend. “My appointment is a tribute,” Williams said.
Black culture and the struggles black Americans have faced is a strong driving force for Pharrell. He reflected on the culture’s unique flavour, influence and widespread appeal. “I think it’s something in the sauce,” he said. “And people like it when they try it.”
Williams emphasized the hard-earned global recognition of this cultural “sauce,” exemplified in the influence of figures like LeBron James, Jay-Z, Beyoncé, Prince and artist Jean-Michel Basquiat.
“A lot of people lost their lives and suffered through the experiences to get us to these positions,” he noted, underscoring the painful history that fuels his desire to honour his community through his work at Louis Vuitton.
Pharrell’s love for life, the moment, and opportunities, imbue his approach to design. “LV is for Louis Vuitton, but it’s also ‘lover’,” he mused. His interpretation of the Louis Vuitton initials signifies his intention to pour love and appreciation into his work, carrying the legacy of black culture forward in a space where it has been historically underrepresented.
“It’s not lost on me that I’m afforded this opportunity to tell these stories,” he said.
The pulse of Paris was set alight as Williams unveiled a debut fusing streetwear aesthetics into the French maison’s traditional lineage. The fashion show epitomised high-voltage energy, reverberating through the audience and culminating in a standing ovation for Williams.
The world-renowned musician, known for his genre-blurring creativity, masterfully orchestrated the event. The runway show mirrored a music video’s high energy, perhaps a testament to the meteoric reach of the brand’s parent company, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
Channelling gender-fluid appeal, Williams showcased an exhaustive collection spanning checkerboard-patterned denim to a sophisticated cream evening jacket. The line, marked by photo prints of the Pont Neuf and a uniquely designed coat with a shaved monogram motif, also underscored his flair for distinct aesthetics.
Playing on the LV codes, Williams’ collaboration with American pixel artist E.T. for a digital motif and the use of Black American artist Henry Taylor’s micro-embroideries added a further dimension to his debut lineup. The collection was replete with pixelated designs on a broad spectrum of pieces, alongside the Damier pattern – which graces the house’s bags – amplified in shades of yellow and black.
The grand finale was a spectacular concert by Jay-Z. The electrifying performance brought the crowd to its feet, their excitement reaching a crescendo as Pharrell took to the stage to join his long-time collaborator. While Rihanna’s arrival, in sync with the show’s climax and exposing a enormous bare baby bump, was nothing short of theatrical.
As the show drew to a close, an emotional Williams emerged to take a bow, wiping away tears and pointing skyward in a heartfelt thank you. The applause that followed was a thunderous affirmation of the musician’s successful transition into the realm of luxury fashion.