Your ageing skin

Arusha Campbell-Chambers, skin, hair & nail health

Skin ageing is a biological process characterised by gradual changes in the structure of the skin that occur with the passage of time. There are two main causes of ageing skin: intrinsic (internal) is our natural ageing process because of the genes we inherit while extrinsic (external) refers to premature ageing as a result of the environment and our lifestyle.

Internal ageing

Internal ageing begins in our 20s and continues at different rates depending on our individual genetic make-up. Visible changes may not appear until many years later. It involves changes in collagen and elastin, leading to decreased firmness and elasticity. There is also loss of other supporting structures like ground substance (containing hyaluronic acid) and fat. Bone loss may cause bones to draw away from the skin. Dead skin cells do not shed from the skin's surface as quickly, and are replaced at a slower rate.

The physical signs of internal ageing include:

• Fine lines and wrinkles
• Skin thinning
• Hollowed cheeks and eye sockets or sagging cheeks (jowls) and lower eyelids
• Rough, dry skin
• Hair loss, greying hair, unwanted facial hair
• Nail thinning and ridging

External factors

Certain external factors may cause premature ageing, which is superimposed on the natural ageing process. These factors include:

• Sunlight or ultraviolet radiation (photoageing)
• Cigarette smoking
• Excessive alcohol
• Pollutants, harsh chemicals
• Poor nutrition
• Repetitive facial expressions
• Gravity, sleeping positions
• Stress
• Sun exposure

Photoageing is usually the main cause of extrinsic or premature ageing. It develops over years of repeated long-term or intense short-term sun exposure. Although individuals with fair skin usually develop more features of photoageing than darker skin types, all races are affected. Repeated sunlight exposure alters collagen and elastin. It may eventually lead to conditions such as skin cancer especially in fairer skin types.

The features of photoageing include freckles, age spots, rough leathery skin, mottled complexion, fine wrinkles which disappear when stretched and more prominent blood vessels.

Preventing premature ageing

• We can help prevent premature ageing by the following measures:
• Sunscreen use and sun protection.
• Avoiding smoking and excessive alcohol.
• Healthy skin-care routine.
• Healthy diet rich in fruits, vegetables, lean meats, etc.
• Sleep on your back or use a special pillow that prevents your face from pressing against it
• Reduce facial expressions, e.g., frowning.

There are many treatment options for those who are concerned about the appearance of ageing skin. These include topical anti-ageing products (e.g., retinoids, alpha hydroxyl acids, antioxidants, botanicals, minerals), chemical peels, microdermabrasion, injectable treatments, laser rejuvenation, radiofrequency and surgery. Your dermatologist can help you decide which treatment or combinations of treatments are best for you.

Dr Arusha Campbell-Chambers is a dermatologist and founder of Dermatology Solutions Skin Clinics & Medi-Spas; email: yourhealth@gleanerjm.com.