Cayman Cabana and Thatch & Barrel deliver farm-to-table magic

WESTERN BUREAU:

The Cayman Islands, often dubbed the ‘Culinary Capital of the Caribbean’, proved its well-deserved title during my recent visit for the State of the Tourism Industry Conference (SOTIC) 2024. With nearly 300 restaurants spread across Grand Cayman, Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman, the islands offer a diverse culinary landscape that showcases both local traditions and global influences.

Among the standout experiences were two restaurants – Thatch & Barrel and Cayman Cabana – owned by Luigi and Christina Moxam. Both establishments embrace a farm-to-table philosophy that celebrates the local bounty of the islands, a reflection of their commitment to sustainable, authentic Caymanian cuisine. But it was more than just the food that left an impression, it was the story behind these culinary gems.

Cayman Cabana, located along the bustling waterfront of Grand Cayman, is a true farm-to-table experience, nestled beside the island’s historic fish market. The restaurant’s proximity to the sea means guests can literally pick their fish from the market and bring it across the street, where the talented kitchen team transforms it into a culinary masterpiece. This personalised experience, unique to the Cayman Islands, adds a layer of intimacy and authenticity that few restaurants can offer.

As I dined on fresh seafood and locally grown produce, I discovered the heart of Cayman Cabana’s kitchen – Erica Williams, a Jamaica-born head chef from Kingston. Her journey is one of resilience, dedication, and passion. Over a decade ago, Erica started as a dishwasher at a previous restaurant in the same location. Now, she stands at the helm of Cayman Cabana’s kitchen, bringing her deep understanding of Caribbean flavours to life with every dish she prepares.

Together with Luigi and a dedicated team, Williams has crafted a menu that balances the rich culinary traditions of the Caribbean with the freshest locally sourced ingredients. The restaurant’s vibrant dishes – like their signature jerk chicken, oxtail, and caramelised plantain flatbread with homemade pepper jelly – are a fusion of flavours that excite the palate and celebrate the essence of the Caribbean.

Christina adds, that the caramelised plantain flatbread was actually inspired by a flatbread back home in Canada where she was born. A pizza back home called the patat – super thinly sliced layers of potato and rosemary.

“Luigi always has this thing – he’s adamant that whatever we’re serving, there’s got to be plantain on the side. He loves plantain. It’s a locally celebrated food, used in so many ways, so we wanted to be creative and say, okay, how can we transform this ingredient into something he knows, but with a progressive twist? The sweetness on the flatbread with the pepper jelly, that’s a local staple here, really gives it something special,” she said.

Thatch & Barrel, the second restaurant owned by the Moxams, offers a more intimate dining experience. While the farm-to-table philosophy is a common thread between both restaurants, each has its distinct personality. Thatch & Barrel plays with ingredients like lemongrass, ginger, and pumpkin, often harvested just hours before making their way into the kitchen. Dishes like the pumpkin bisque – a blend of local pumpkin, lemongrass, and ginger – exude the warmth and freshness that define Caymanian cuisine.

Yet, the story of Cayman Cabana is not just about food; it’s about community. The kitchen team, including Williams and her fellow Jamaican colleague Sylvia, have not only navigated the challenges of the restaurant industry but also built a support system rooted in shared values, faith, and an unwavering commitment to excellence.

As Luigi explained, the restaurant’s success is a direct reflection of the deep bonds forged among the staff, many of whom have been with the restaurant for over a decade. Through triumphs and hardships – including the tumultuous period of COVID-19 – the team has remained steadfast, driven by a collective sense of responsibility for each other and the restaurant’s continued success.

At the heart of Cayman Cabana’s menu is the infusion of Jamaican flavours, a tribute to the rich culinary heritage of the island. Whether it’s the delicate balance of Scotch bonnet peppers in their jerk seasoning or the soul-warming oxtail, the Jamaican influence is undeniable. As Luigi passionately shared, “When people say we have the best oxtail or jerk chicken in Cayman, you know we’re doing something right – because they know their food.”

In both Cayman Cabana and Thatch & Barrel, the focus remains on sourcing local ingredients and creating dishes that honour the land and the people. For Luigi, food is more than just a meal; it’s an experience that connects people to the place, to the farmers and fishermen, and to the cultural fabric that makes the Cayman Islands unique.

As I left the Cayman Islands, I carried with me not just the flavours of their food but the stories of the people behind it. From Williams’ inspiring rise to head chef to Luigi and Christina’s deep-rooted commitment to their team and their community, Cayman Cabana is more than just a restaurant – it’s a testament to the power of passion, community, and the magic of the Caribbean kitchen.

janet.silvera@gleanerjm.com