Detangling natural hairstyles

When we think of natural hairstyles, the afro, corn rows, and Bantu knots always come to mind. Looking back to any era that defined black hair, it was often a symbol of identity and power. Yet to date, many still have not realised the beauty of their coils, the spoils resulting from their haircare habits and the diversity of styles that are propelling natural hair to becoming detangled from society’s beauty standards.

For Oprah Williams, owner of ProperlyGuided Natural Hair Care and Beauty Salon, a natural hair grooming haven in the Kingston Corporate Area, “a person’s hair is a gift, a blessing, and to many persons of African descent, it is their crown”. “A lot of black persons have just relearnt about or started accepting their natural selves, and this includes their hair and the hair of others, and so we see more persons seeking more ways to style and take care of their hair,” Williams told Living.

First, it is important to know your texture and curl pattern. There are three main natural textures: wavy, curly, and tightly coiled hair ranging from Type 2 to Type 4. Additionally, there are subtypes - A through to C - that determine the difference between a loose or tight-curl pattern.

Williams handles all and shares her tried-and-true grooming secrets below.

SMALL, TIGHT CURLS

Gabriel Williams’ hair ranges from 4A to 4B, which has small, tight coils, and unlike some curl patterns that start mid-length, the coiled texture begins at the scalp and continues through the end. Finger-coil styles are effective for people with hair ranging from 4A to 4B and small, tight coils. After Gabriel Williams’ hair was cleansed and conditioned with a detangler, a curl jelly and mousse were used to carry out a finger coil style. What is used to define the curls all depends on what enhances them better. Williams does not use a blow-dryer on her hair to highlight her natural curl pattern. A diffuser was used to dry the hair to allow it more flexibility instead of stiff curls.

TIGHTLY PACKED AND DENSE COILS

One known fact about tightly packed and dense is that it is vulnerable to damage from heat tools such as flat irons, blow-dryers, and curling irons. The natural oils in the hair don’t always make it into the body of the hair and can make the hair look and feel drier and even cause shrinkage. Don’t pile on the products to keep it moisturised and neatly in place as it may produce unwanted results. Simple twist-outs don’t require all of that.

When Kadija Williams’ hair is shampooed and conditioned, it is blow-dried with natural oils to lengthen it. This is a tried-and-true grooming tip. It is then rewet and combined with a twisting butter to enhance the curls for the style selected. After 15-20 minutes under the hair dryer, it can be twisted out then or left overnight, and for some people, the twists can be kept in for up to two weeks without pulling them out.

NATURALLY CURLY HAIR

The wash-and-go is the easiest and trickiest of curly hairstyles but is a known go-to. It can be fast, but without the right curly or natural hair products, it can become painful – filled with frizz and tangled knots. The difference between the wash-and-go and a finger coil is that it focuses on defining your own curl pattern without using a finger. Kashauna Atkins’ wash-and-go was remixed with Bantu knots using a light gel. Williams recommends using gels with moisturiser as part of its components. A diffuser was also used instead of placing her under the dryer to avoid stiff curls. It helps to have the curls free-flowing and relaxed. “I don’t recommend the Bantu knots too often as we don’t want the hairline to start receding. Same for the wash-and-go and finger-coil styles because the next mistake people make is putting the hair in one direction. You want to allow more versatility in the hair,” Oprah said.

LOCS

More persons are getting locked in, and both women and men of all races wear locs in the corporate space. The complaints for persons with locs vary from them not being neat when it is time to loc new growth to the build-up of products becoming noticeable. It is important to find a technique that makes the process less taxing on the person doing the style and on the scalp of the person who is being styled. Also, some products, including conditioners, can cause unattractive build-up. For Vondane Wade’s hair, a palm-rolling technique was applied. Based on his length, while many more styles can be done, such as a male updo or more varied cornrow styles, he is in the process of growing his hair. As such, a style that allows it to breathe was selected.

TYPE 4C (CHILDREN)

Neveah Lewis has Type 4C hair. Her strands are very thick and long but also the shrinking type. Some persons would cornrow the hair wet, but based on the style — a cornrow updo with juicy twists — it was dried first, and the rewetting technique was utilised. Rewetting the hair does not take the products out of it, but adding some leave-in conditioner helps keep it moisturised. The twists at the end also add volume.

stephanie.lyew@gleanerjm.com