Babu’s jerk chicken – A Portland treasure

The sweet sight of smoke permeating the clean air of Portland could only mean one thing: there’s a jerk stand nearby. With hunger consuming the best of us, my friends and I headed to a popular food spot on the stretch known to locals as Seaside Road for the most ‘pantastic’ indulgence.

Perched just beside the conch spot, it offered jerked chicken with a difference, to the merriment of those in neighbouring and far away communities. We arrived to see no parking and little to no space to stand – a clear sign that this was the place to be. We called out to query about an order and were introduced to a man we later came to know as Randy Miller. He was busy cheffing at the station, twisting and turning succulent chicken on display and getting the quarters in order to be delivered hot and ready to customers.

The right aromas of authentic flavour beckoned to our taste buds as we waited patiently for our chance to devour the delight. Just when we thought the wait could not get any longer, we felt light droplets turning into heavy rain. Everyone immediately sought refuge in one of the two tents occupied by the jerk stand. That’s Portland for you; you never know when that blessing will come showering down.

Fascinated by the calm approach of the packed crowd who eagerly waited for their many requests, I, for one, wanted to know more. Miller explained that he isn’t the owner of the business. He is employed by O’Neil Skeen, better known as Babu. Skeen started the business three years ago, after garnering experience from Bikini Beach and Piggy’s Jerk, just walking distance away. He decided to branch out and make a name for himself – with no regrets.

“The boss is normally here on the weekends. But for right now, we have everything set,” Miller shared. So what’s the secret to this jerking success? Signature seasoning and overnight marinating. “The secret is in the seasoning. The chicken is marinated overnight before it gets here, and we make our own pepper sauce,” he added. A bystander highlighted that this is a light night; weekends carry an even bigger crowd than the one in front of us. Unfathomable, considering the space was, at that moment, limited.

Served as soon as it was ready, the team was swift in delivering quarters complemented by freshly fried festivals. Seven boxes later, we stood along the wet streets, excited to dig in. And the jerk stand did not disappoint. Both succulent and tasty, it was seasoned to perfection and done just right – not dry or crispy (after all, this isn’t fried chicken). I now have a greater understanding of the customers’ patiently impatient stance because this was definitely worth the wait.

krysta.anderson@gleanerjm.com