Chef Mark Cole delights with masterful menu at Chaîne dinner
Published:Thursday | March 7, 2024 | 12:09 AMJanet Silvera/Senior Gleaner Writer
WESTERN BUREAU:
At last Saturday’s Chaîne des Rôtisseurs dinner, Executive Chef Mark Cole unveiled his culinary masterpiece: an intricately crafted ice dome, housing a refreshing sorbet, featuring flavours of dragon fruit, watermelon, and Scotch bonnet pepper.
It took The Jamaica Pegasus hotel chef five days to meticulously create this stunning palate cleanser, only for it to be devoured in a mere five seconds by delighted diners.
“The ice takes a considerable time to set,” Cole explained to Food days after his name continues to ring on the lips of the foodies who were part of the historical culinary experience.
Cole enhanced the presentation by delicately placing sprigs of fennel within the dome, creating a striking backdrop that was accentuated by the ambient lighting.
The eight-course Chaîne dinner, held quarterly and hosted by various members of the association across the island, attracted a diverse crowd known for their sophisticated palates and global appreciation of gastronomy.
The evening commenced with a tantalising opening course: a yellowfin tuna roll accompanied by tropical fruits and garnished with dehydrated apple, parsley, and cilantro. Presented on a glass mirror within half a coconut shell, the dish was meticulously crafted by the chef, his team of four cooks, five sous chefs, and 26 servers.
Cole explained, “While this dish is inspired by Oriental cuisine, I sought to infuse a touch of Jamaica by serving it in a half coconut shell.”
Ideally, his aim was also to showcase not only Jamaica’s culinary prowess but also the capability of The Jamaica Pegasus hotel as a whole to produce dishes of this calibre, and he succeeded.
With a captivating start, that set the tone for the evening, guests eagerly anticipated what would undoubtedly be the highlight of the meal: a velvety puréed curried goat. Chef Cole’s meticulous preparation began with roasting the goat, meticulously removing the bones, and then simmering it in traditional Jamaican-style curry. To enhance the texture and flavour, he skilfully incorporated breadcrumbs for added firmness and coconut milk for richness.
Drawing on his expertise in charcuterie, particularly in crafting terrines and pâtés, Cole infused this dish with an innovative blend of Italian flair and Jamaican influence.
Continuing the gastronomic journey around the world, Chef Cole presented his next course, which he modestly described as a simple soup, yet its flavours belied that description. Cream of parsnip and carrot soup was elegantly served in house-made bread bowls, complemented by a drizzle of sautéed scallion cream and accompanied by a pigtail cigar in balsamic glaze and roasted cinnamon.
By the fourth course, The Jamaica Pegasus team had surpassed all expectations in service, taste, and creativity. Chef Cole and his team showcased their culinary prowess with an Asian-inspired dish: braised duck breast, infused with warm sake, ginger, soy sauce reduction, and a hint of Scotch bonnet. A puff pastry shaped into the letter ‘C’ stood at one end of the plate, paying homage to the Chaîne.
Dubbed ‘The Cat’s Meow,’ the fifth course unveiled by the innovative team at The Jamaica Pegasus was a testament to their creativity and attention to detail. Inspired by artistry, they presented a jewel box adorned with sea shells, showcasing a pan-seared lobster nestled in coconut cream.
The culinary magic extended to the accompaniments, where marinated tomatoes infused with anchovies and capers provided a fusion of Italian and Caribbean flavours. The incorporation of sea shells not only enhanced the presentation but also evoked the sensation of the lobster emerging fresh from the ocean.
As the time arrived for the palate cleanser, anticipation filled the room, and guests eagerly awaited the unexpected delight that awaited their taste buds.
Cole paid homage to France, the birthplace of the Chaîne, with his rendition of a perfect beef Wellington, served alongside beetroot and asparagus. Despite the intricate seven-step process involved in its creation, Chef Cole expressed pride in the exceptional outcome.
“To conclude the evening on a high note, Cole presented a jackfruit crème brûlée, seamlessly blending Jamaican and French cuisines. Locally sourced fruits were transformed into a vibrant compote, complemented by blueberries and strawberries, while a decadent bread pudding infused with chocolate ganache and Blue Mountain cocoa provided a satisfying finale.
Elevated by his boss, Matthew Bancroft, the junior sous chef hailed as having the most promising future in the culinary arts, had the honour of presenting the dishes. Special recognition was also extended to the sanitation and banqueting housemen, whose diligent efforts ensured cleanliness throughout and after the event.
But that was only half of the evening; the other half was effortlessly the pride and joy of sommelier Deborah Taylor of Select Brands, who expertly paired the most amazing and befitting wines with this incredibly delicious meal.
Taylor introduced the 2018 Rustenburg Chenin Blanc from Stellenbosch, South Africa; a 2021 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre from the Loire Valley, France; and the 2018 Marques de Murietta Reserva from the vineyards of Rioja, Spain, to the spectacular fiesta.