Sumfest's menu

Howard Campbell, Gleaner Writer

Last Wednesday, Ralston Donaldson was busy 'rehearsing' for his annual Reggae Sumfest 'performance' at his McCatty Street home in Montego Bay.

He has been a featured act since the festival was first held in 1993.

Donaldson, by the way, is not an artiste. He operates the Conquering Lion booth which caters to vegans and lovers of natural juices.

"My stuff nuh have nuh chemical, nuh salt or nuthin fi do wid animal," Donaldson told Food. "The people dem love it." Donaldson will be among over 40 food vendors offering a variety of mostly local cuisine when Sumfest's main events start next Thursday, July 22, with Dancehall Night at Catherine Hall in Montego Bay.

Vendor reduction

Due to limited space, there has been a significant reduction in the number of vendors at Reggae Sumfest since 1993, when over 60 stalls operated. Junior Taylor, a senior member of Summerfest Promotions, says the tastes of patrons have changed considerably over the years.

"Jamaica is a chicken country so that remains our biggest seller, but there has been a big demand for fish and vegetarian dishes," Taylor said. That change has benefited Donaldson, a 68 year-old Rastafarian who boasts that his personal diet has been preservative-free for nearly 40 years. But for a few additions, Donaldson's Sumfest menu has been consistent.

"Wi still have the corn sip (soup), Irish moss and peanut porridge but wi have the tofu sandwich dem wey the people enjoy," he said.

Spicy meats

The food list from Pork Pit Restaurant, another Sumfest regular, is suited to the palates of lovers of spicy meats. The Gloucester Avenue eatery has been around for over 25 years but first opened a stall at Sumfest five years ago.

"It's a busy time for us and we do get good business during Sumfest. We not only try to maintain our standard, but try different things," said Pork Pit spokesperson Linda Leslie. She said the jerked chicken, pork, sausages and shrimp are Pork Pit's most popular buys. Getting a slot for a food booth at Catherine Hall can be expensive. Donaldson recalls paying $7,000 to sell at the inaugural Sumfest; this year he shelled out $55,000.

Jamaican cuisine has always had a presence at major local reggae festivals which also attract hundreds of foreigners. When Reggae Sunsplash was first held 1978, promoters ensured that, in addition to traditional dishes (curried goat, chicken, stewed peas), there was ital (no salt) food which was favoured by Rastafarian patrons.

"My stuff nuh have nuh chemical, nuh salt or nuthin fi do wid animal."